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Thank you for being a valued customer!
If you know anyone who is interested in a 5 star service and may benefit from our help, we would be grateful for any referrals you could give us. - Jon Williams- Owner |
How to Care For Your Homes New Investment:
Pavers are Naturally Low Maintenance:
Homeowners like yourself embrace paver projects because they are naturally low maintenance. They tend to last for decades and require little effort from you. While patio pavers and driveway pavers don’t need a lot of maintenance, they are not maintenance-free.
The good news is you can maintain and clean pavers relatively easily.
Keep Your Pavers Free of Dirt and Debris:
When it comes to the maintenance of pavers, a basic technique is to keep them free of dirt and debris. Whether you are tracking dirt from the yard or mowing results in grass clippings getting on your pavers, there is an easy solution: Sweep everything away with a bristled broom, or leaf blower. By removing the dirt and debris, your pavers will retain their luster longer.
If you sweep your paver patio and driveway, and you want it to look even better feel free to wash the pavers with clean water. A simple garden hose will do the trick.
This is the easiest method to restore your pavers to their original look.
Pressure Wash Your Pavers Every Year or Two
Sometimes, cleaning your pavers proves to be more difficult. You might have grease and oil stains, or perhaps your yard experienced moss growth. In these instances, you will need something more than a broom and water hose. You might want to use a pressure washer.
If you want to give your paver patio, driveway, outdoor living room, or outdoor kitchen that deeper clean it needs, pressure washing can be a good idea. However, you will need to use a pressure washer with care. If you decide to clean the pavers yourself, use a lower pressure setting to protect your pavers. Avoid pressure washing joints, as this will result in the removal of polymeric sand, and will need to be re added.
Maintenance Tips for Different Types of Pavers
How Often Should You Clean Your Pavers:
For the easier stuff, like dirt, debris, grass clippings, leaves, and twigs, you should routinely clean it, especially if you plan on entertaining guests in your outdoor space. You want your outdoor living room or kitchen to look nice and inviting.
For the deeper clean with a power washer, you can do it every year or two, depending upon the buildup.
Should You Use a Paver Sealer When Maintaining Your Pavers?
A sealer will help add to the useful life of your pavers, so it is a good idea. EP Henry, one of the manufacturers we use, recommends using a paver sealer every three to five years, and they advise not to apply a sealer more than once in a three-year period.
If you apply a sealer too often, then the surface can develop a film, which might lead to discoloration in the sunlight.
Keep the Joint Sand Filled:
Joint sand is an important component in the installation of interlocking pavers. This sand, sometimes referred to as polymeric sand, is used between each paver stone to help hold them together.
Keep your eye on the jointing sand and fill it in as needed. This will maintain the integrity of the bedding sand beneath the pavers. Its best to check pavers in the fall for missing sand prior to the winter freeze thaw cycles.
Replace Cracked or Broken Pavers:
Pavers are popular because they are low maintenance. However, a paver might get cracked or become broken. At Bayside, we have a 2-year guarantee on our installation work, and if you run into a paver with a break or crack, call us. We’ll fix it at no charge. Many manufacturing companies also have lifetime warranties on their products.
With a paver project, it is easier to replace only those damaged pavers. This is not the case with poured concrete driveways, patios, or walkways. The damaged area needs to be ripped out, and it is difficult to have the color of the new concrete match because of curing and weathering.
Homeowners like yourself embrace paver projects because they are naturally low maintenance. They tend to last for decades and require little effort from you. While patio pavers and driveway pavers don’t need a lot of maintenance, they are not maintenance-free.
The good news is you can maintain and clean pavers relatively easily.
Keep Your Pavers Free of Dirt and Debris:
When it comes to the maintenance of pavers, a basic technique is to keep them free of dirt and debris. Whether you are tracking dirt from the yard or mowing results in grass clippings getting on your pavers, there is an easy solution: Sweep everything away with a bristled broom, or leaf blower. By removing the dirt and debris, your pavers will retain their luster longer.
If you sweep your paver patio and driveway, and you want it to look even better feel free to wash the pavers with clean water. A simple garden hose will do the trick.
This is the easiest method to restore your pavers to their original look.
Pressure Wash Your Pavers Every Year or Two
Sometimes, cleaning your pavers proves to be more difficult. You might have grease and oil stains, or perhaps your yard experienced moss growth. In these instances, you will need something more than a broom and water hose. You might want to use a pressure washer.
If you want to give your paver patio, driveway, outdoor living room, or outdoor kitchen that deeper clean it needs, pressure washing can be a good idea. However, you will need to use a pressure washer with care. If you decide to clean the pavers yourself, use a lower pressure setting to protect your pavers. Avoid pressure washing joints, as this will result in the removal of polymeric sand, and will need to be re added.
Maintenance Tips for Different Types of Pavers
- Brick or clay pavers: Bricks make a beautiful choice for pavers, but as time passes, you will notice a chalky, dusty substance developing on them. If you like the rustic look, then don’t worry. If not, you can wash it with an environmentally friendly detergent. Be sure to scrub them with a firm, stiff brush, and they will look as good as new.
- Stone pavers: While natural stone pavers will beautify your outdoor living area, they are unlike manufactured pavers because of their uneven surfaces. Dirt and grime can easily collect. It might take a little more elbow grease to clean them (unless you want to use a pressure washer).
- Concrete pavers: If you have concrete pavers (which are different from poured concrete driveways, patios, and walkways), use a mild detergent to keep them clean. Do not use brushes with wire bristles because they will scratch the surface. IF your pavers are sealed, you might not want to use a power washer, either. It could damage the seal or finish of your pavers.
How Often Should You Clean Your Pavers:
For the easier stuff, like dirt, debris, grass clippings, leaves, and twigs, you should routinely clean it, especially if you plan on entertaining guests in your outdoor space. You want your outdoor living room or kitchen to look nice and inviting.
For the deeper clean with a power washer, you can do it every year or two, depending upon the buildup.
Should You Use a Paver Sealer When Maintaining Your Pavers?
A sealer will help add to the useful life of your pavers, so it is a good idea. EP Henry, one of the manufacturers we use, recommends using a paver sealer every three to five years, and they advise not to apply a sealer more than once in a three-year period.
If you apply a sealer too often, then the surface can develop a film, which might lead to discoloration in the sunlight.
Keep the Joint Sand Filled:
Joint sand is an important component in the installation of interlocking pavers. This sand, sometimes referred to as polymeric sand, is used between each paver stone to help hold them together.
Keep your eye on the jointing sand and fill it in as needed. This will maintain the integrity of the bedding sand beneath the pavers. Its best to check pavers in the fall for missing sand prior to the winter freeze thaw cycles.
Replace Cracked or Broken Pavers:
Pavers are popular because they are low maintenance. However, a paver might get cracked or become broken. At Bayside, we have a 2-year guarantee on our installation work, and if you run into a paver with a break or crack, call us. We’ll fix it at no charge. Many manufacturing companies also have lifetime warranties on their products.
With a paver project, it is easier to replace only those damaged pavers. This is not the case with poured concrete driveways, patios, or walkways. The damaged area needs to be ripped out, and it is difficult to have the color of the new concrete match because of curing and weathering.
PLANT CARE:
This is probably the most important part of maintenance after your plants are installed. We have carefully planted your trees, shrubs or flowers at the proper depth, location and placement for optimal growth and aesthetics. It will take a few weeks for the plants’ roots to establish. The following guidelines will help you and your plants for the next few months and beyond. They may be altered as needed based on natural rainfall, but only if that rain is substantial (substantial means rainfall is equal to or greater than 1”).
MULCH:
Mulch is an important component in the health of your new plant. The root system is the ‘heart’ of your plant that needs protection. Here are some of the benefits of mulch:
We install a commercial-grade weed barrier on all our stone/ gravel landscape projects. This 20-year weed barrier helps ensure longevity within the landscape bed(s), allowing water to percolate through while keeping weeds from growing up through the mulch. This also helps tremendously with extending the life of organic mulch by reducing the decomposition process. The barrier will keep rock, pebbles, sand, or gravel from sinking and disappearing into the parent soil below due to settling, weather and washing. This barrier is kept in place with steel pins to prevent upheaval from freezing and thawing.
Some customers choose not to use a cloth-type barrier. There are many other items that may be used, such as cardboard, newspaper, paper, leaves etc. However, these materials will break down very quickly and can leach undesirable chemicals that are found in paper products. DO NOT USE PLASTIC. This is a big no-no, as plastic does not breathe and will move water away from your plants’ root system. Plus, plastic is not biodegradable and will ALWAYS remain in the ground.
***Please keep in mind weeds will grow on top of the weed barrier if you grass becomes unruly or you over seed into the garden beds**
WEED CONTROL:
If you are using mulch or rock (gravel/pebbles), weed seeds will eventually fly into the landscape and take root. Weeds are amazing little plants that can establish almost anywhere – cracks in driveways, gutters, rock, etc. An easy and effective way to prevent weeds is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. We use a granular product so that we can apply it close to and even over the top of desired plants for good coverage. A pre-emergent should be applied three times a year: early spring, early summer, and fall. This will prevent grassy weeds and broadleaf weeds from germinating, which in turn reduces having to spray broad-spectrum herbicides (Roundup) that can cause major damage to desired plants. It also saves time from hand-pulling and digging, which will disrupt the landscape and your landscape plants.
TREE STAKES:
As needed, heavy duty wooden posts are used for newly installed trees/shrubs. Stakes are used for different reasons. First, to help anchor the plant and protect it against high winds and torrential rains. This prevents the plants from shifting or completely coming out of the ground. The stakes should remain for at least the first 12 months; this is the time when the plant has established its root system. Second, stakes will help keep the plants growing in an upright position and prevent leaning or a crooked growth habit. Maintaining a good structure for the plant will save time and money. A tree or shrub will self-correct if growing crooked but will leave a bend in the trunk, causing a weak point. Third, these stakes can provide a physical barrier at ground-level to help stave off mower damage.
Be sure to use pieces of rubber hose to buffer the zone where the tension wire meets the bark. This will help prevent the wire from cutting into the plant’s bark and allow for growth (movement) of the plant. It also reduces dangerous rubbing which can open a wound, creating a pathway for insect, disease, and water/ice damage.
It is particularly important to completely remove the stakes, wires, and rubber pieces around 12 months after planting. This will help prevent the plant from growing around the wires and rubber pieces. Plus, the wires may inhibit the natural growth pattern of branches.
FERTILIZATION:
Just like with our bodies, plants need supplemental nutrients. Below are some benefits of feeding plants:
For newly planted trees and shrubs, we recommend a probiotic. This product will increase microbial action, allowing increased uptake of nutrients already in the soil. This will give the plant the best opportunity to establish itself without pushing growth too fast or burning. For established plants (older than one year), the probiotic should be applied twice a year; in fact, this treatment will reduce the amount of fertilizer needed in a given calendar year.
This is probably the most important part of maintenance after your plants are installed. We have carefully planted your trees, shrubs or flowers at the proper depth, location and placement for optimal growth and aesthetics. It will take a few weeks for the plants’ roots to establish. The following guidelines will help you and your plants for the next few months and beyond. They may be altered as needed based on natural rainfall, but only if that rain is substantial (substantial means rainfall is equal to or greater than 1”).
- Water new plants daily for the first 7-10 days.
- Water every other day for the next 10 days.
- Water as needed following the initial 17-20 days.
- Hand watering is highly recommended at the base of the plant to cover the entire root zone.
- Hold the water hose approximately 60 seconds per plant at a normal flow rate.
- Keep water off the leaves of the plants, as it can lead to leaf scorch, fungus, etc.
- Excessive watering may lead to root rot.
- Test moisture with a finger 2” deep around the base of the plants.
- Allow soil to dry between watering’s.
- Water frequently during drought, high temperatures, and windy periods.
MULCH:
Mulch is an important component in the health of your new plant. The root system is the ‘heart’ of your plant that needs protection. Here are some of the benefits of mulch:
- Moisture Retention: Mulch aids in retaining moisture for the sensitive roots. Proper uptake of water is essential, and water-loss can happen quickly due to high temperatures, quick draining soils, and improper watering.
- Insulation: Mulch acts as an insulator from extreme temperatures. Excessive cold can damage or even kill a plant quickly. The same goes for high heat – especially if the plant is in full sun.
- Nutrients: Mulch is usually comprised of organic material such as ground wood, leaves, straw, hay, pine needles, etc. As time goes on, this material will decompose and add important nutrients to the soil for your plants.
- Erosion control: Most landscapes are void of ground coverings. Mulch will help prevent erosion scenarios and keep the soil close to your plant’s roots.
- Weed control: Placing a 2–3” layer of mulch will help stave off weed seeds from germinating and provide an easier environment for pulling or spraying weeds that do manage to grow. Mulch also makes it easy to apply pre-emergent products on the surface to help prevent any weed seeds from germinating.
- Aesthetics: Mulch comes in a variety of materials, sizes, and colors. It can help accentuate and complement the plants, rocks, features, etc.
- Barrier: Mulch also acts as a physical barrier to protect against mowers and weed eaters. Many times, new plants can be damaged by lawn equipment if they are not easy to see. It is recommended to install a mulch ring around all new plants and trees.
We install a commercial-grade weed barrier on all our stone/ gravel landscape projects. This 20-year weed barrier helps ensure longevity within the landscape bed(s), allowing water to percolate through while keeping weeds from growing up through the mulch. This also helps tremendously with extending the life of organic mulch by reducing the decomposition process. The barrier will keep rock, pebbles, sand, or gravel from sinking and disappearing into the parent soil below due to settling, weather and washing. This barrier is kept in place with steel pins to prevent upheaval from freezing and thawing.
Some customers choose not to use a cloth-type barrier. There are many other items that may be used, such as cardboard, newspaper, paper, leaves etc. However, these materials will break down very quickly and can leach undesirable chemicals that are found in paper products. DO NOT USE PLASTIC. This is a big no-no, as plastic does not breathe and will move water away from your plants’ root system. Plus, plastic is not biodegradable and will ALWAYS remain in the ground.
***Please keep in mind weeds will grow on top of the weed barrier if you grass becomes unruly or you over seed into the garden beds**
WEED CONTROL:
If you are using mulch or rock (gravel/pebbles), weed seeds will eventually fly into the landscape and take root. Weeds are amazing little plants that can establish almost anywhere – cracks in driveways, gutters, rock, etc. An easy and effective way to prevent weeds is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. We use a granular product so that we can apply it close to and even over the top of desired plants for good coverage. A pre-emergent should be applied three times a year: early spring, early summer, and fall. This will prevent grassy weeds and broadleaf weeds from germinating, which in turn reduces having to spray broad-spectrum herbicides (Roundup) that can cause major damage to desired plants. It also saves time from hand-pulling and digging, which will disrupt the landscape and your landscape plants.
TREE STAKES:
As needed, heavy duty wooden posts are used for newly installed trees/shrubs. Stakes are used for different reasons. First, to help anchor the plant and protect it against high winds and torrential rains. This prevents the plants from shifting or completely coming out of the ground. The stakes should remain for at least the first 12 months; this is the time when the plant has established its root system. Second, stakes will help keep the plants growing in an upright position and prevent leaning or a crooked growth habit. Maintaining a good structure for the plant will save time and money. A tree or shrub will self-correct if growing crooked but will leave a bend in the trunk, causing a weak point. Third, these stakes can provide a physical barrier at ground-level to help stave off mower damage.
Be sure to use pieces of rubber hose to buffer the zone where the tension wire meets the bark. This will help prevent the wire from cutting into the plant’s bark and allow for growth (movement) of the plant. It also reduces dangerous rubbing which can open a wound, creating a pathway for insect, disease, and water/ice damage.
It is particularly important to completely remove the stakes, wires, and rubber pieces around 12 months after planting. This will help prevent the plant from growing around the wires and rubber pieces. Plus, the wires may inhibit the natural growth pattern of branches.
FERTILIZATION:
Just like with our bodies, plants need supplemental nutrients. Below are some benefits of feeding plants:
- Promote vigorous growth.
- Help the plant survive or recover in times of stress.
- Promote stronger branches, flowers and roots.
- Fight against insects and pathogens (fungus).
- Promote a healthy, full and lustrous canopy.
For newly planted trees and shrubs, we recommend a probiotic. This product will increase microbial action, allowing increased uptake of nutrients already in the soil. This will give the plant the best opportunity to establish itself without pushing growth too fast or burning. For established plants (older than one year), the probiotic should be applied twice a year; in fact, this treatment will reduce the amount of fertilizer needed in a given calendar year.
Sod Care:
Sod is mature grass that has been sliced away from the earth in a solid mat with about ½ inch of soil and roots attached. Sod must be installed the same or the next day after it is cut from the sod farm. With little soil surrounding the roots, water is its life blood until new roots are flushed out. The following instructions are vital for its survival and establishment.
WATERING SOD:
This is the most important step for care after installation.
SEED CARE:
Seeding is the least expensive and most common process in creating a lawn. Just like with sod, seeding requires quality watering. To establish the grass quickly and efficiently, follow these steps:
WATERING SEED:
At the time that the seed is worked into the soil, a starter fertilizer is applied. This will provide vital nutrients for the seedlings as they take root, promoting quicker growth and a strong root system. Just like sod, it is highly recommended to utilize a fertilizer program to yield the best results for a strong and healthy lawn. A fertilizer application should be applied about 3 weeks after the initial installation.
WEEDS AND SEEDING:
Due to the seeding process, weeds (possibly quite a few) will emerge. This is because weed seed that already existed either in or on the surface has now received the elements to germinate: water, light, and soil contact. This is a normal event and is expected. Broadleaf weeds can be sprayed after 3 mowing’s. Annual grassy weeds will die back in the colder months leading into winter. Preemergent/fertilizer applications the following spring will prevent annual grassy weeds from returning.
Sod is mature grass that has been sliced away from the earth in a solid mat with about ½ inch of soil and roots attached. Sod must be installed the same or the next day after it is cut from the sod farm. With little soil surrounding the roots, water is its life blood until new roots are flushed out. The following instructions are vital for its survival and establishment.
WATERING SOD:
This is the most important step for care after installation.
- First 2 weeks: Water entire area twice daily for 20-30 minutes
- Third week: Water once daily for 20-30 minutes
- Fourth week: Wean watering frequency back to 2-3 times per week.
- Mow the sod after the second week on a tall setting (4”). Do not mow if muddy, allow the sod to dry enough to run mower over the grass. Water lawn after mowing.
- Stay off the grass for at least 2 weeks to allow the roots to anchor.
SEED CARE:
Seeding is the least expensive and most common process in creating a lawn. Just like with sod, seeding requires quality watering. To establish the grass quickly and efficiently, follow these steps:
WATERING SEED:
- Keep the area damp 3” down for the first month.
- Water slowly with a fine spray to avoid erosion (fan/oscillating sprinkler works best.)
- Do not allow water to form puddles, this will drown out the seedlings.
- Watering in the morning is best, avoid late afternoon or evening to help prevent fungus.
- Mow new grass to a height of 2.5”-3” to promote growth and thickening (allow the grassy area to dry enough to allow for a mower; if it is too muddy the mower will damage the ground/grass.)
- Gradually raise mower height each time to achieve a final cutting height of 3-4”.
- Continue long intermittent watering weekly, achieving a total of 1 inch per week for optimal results.
At the time that the seed is worked into the soil, a starter fertilizer is applied. This will provide vital nutrients for the seedlings as they take root, promoting quicker growth and a strong root system. Just like sod, it is highly recommended to utilize a fertilizer program to yield the best results for a strong and healthy lawn. A fertilizer application should be applied about 3 weeks after the initial installation.
WEEDS AND SEEDING:
Due to the seeding process, weeds (possibly quite a few) will emerge. This is because weed seed that already existed either in or on the surface has now received the elements to germinate: water, light, and soil contact. This is a normal event and is expected. Broadleaf weeds can be sprayed after 3 mowing’s. Annual grassy weeds will die back in the colder months leading into winter. Preemergent/fertilizer applications the following spring will prevent annual grassy weeds from returning.
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Contact Us:
Address: 11205 Lilac Lane
Perry Hall, MD |
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